After the main races, the kids race kept us quite entertained with ages 5-15 competing in an 1/8th mile loop. It was the cutest thing to see pint-sized kids in spandex and helmets bigger than themselves pedaling as hard as they could. One girl on a pedal-less training bike even finished a lap and shot her little fists into the air at the finish line. Too cute. I have an uncanny feeling that my future kids will be somewhat similar.
Monday, August 25, 2008
Life is short, but sweet for certain.
After the main races, the kids race kept us quite entertained with ages 5-15 competing in an 1/8th mile loop. It was the cutest thing to see pint-sized kids in spandex and helmets bigger than themselves pedaling as hard as they could. One girl on a pedal-less training bike even finished a lap and shot her little fists into the air at the finish line. Too cute. I have an uncanny feeling that my future kids will be somewhat similar.
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
Citius, Altius, Fortius.
We continued on down the canyon, with all of us jumping down near the double falls and then stopping for lunch along the cool rock formations and having a ton of fun that only adventurers like us can have. Then, we finally got to the biggest of the falls. The slings that we put in last time were still there, but we didn't bring ropes, so at that point, we had two choices: hike around or jump. Since Tyler had jumped last time, I had been itching to try it as well. When I stepped to the edge, I got really excited. The water levels were lower, and there was no way to depth check, but since we didn't even get close to finding a bottom last time and there were no boulders at all, I felt fairly sure that it was completely safe. With slightly more trepidation than the first jumps of the day, I pushed off of the granite past the few rocks sticking over the edge and flew into space. I really can't get enough of this jumping thing. It was an excellent jump, even with the Camelback, and when I resurfaced I was all smiles. My friends who looked down at me from above didn't think the same way about the jump as I did and they climbed around. I swam through to the second falls where we had rapped through the waterfall the last time and enjoyed the ambiance of the scenery on the top of the falls while the others climbed down to meet me. Then all of us took great flying leaps into the deep pool below. It was beautiful in so many ways.
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
The Kessans take over Arizona
Since it was almost noon by the time that everything was over, my family and I opted out of driving too far away and decided to instead head to Coon Bluff for a bit of relaxing and playing in the Salt River. They were all amazed to find such a large and fast flowing river in the middle of the desert, and Dad, Emi, and I had a blast swimming around while Ang lounged in the shade and was kept entertained by our crazy antics and the ground squirells. Emi and I took advantage of the fast current and floated downstream through the rapids and down towards the namesake bluff, where we spent some quality sister bonding time jumping off of the cliffs.
On Sunday, we woke early, had a nice breakfast at the hotel, and then headed north on I-17. Our final stop of the day was to be the Grand Canyon, but since neither Emily nor Angela had been up that way, we decided to stop a few other places beforehand. Our first side trip was through Sedona. I had only been to the land of red rock once before, and that was two years ago, so I was looking forward to it. The amount of people that flock to Sedona overwhelms me a bit, and I tend to look for less popular places, but you cannot deny the reason that people go there: it is absolutely gorgeous. As we dropped into the little valley, the tall red walls grew around us, surrounding us with monuments such as Bell Rock and Cathedral Rock. We all had our eyes glued to the scenery as we drove into town. We didn't stop downtown, but continued on to the one spot that I had been to before: Slide Rock State Park. We parked upstream of the actual slides and hiked along the road until we came to the naturally carved red rock waterpark. Even though it was still midmorning, throngs of people already filled the entire length of the park, and I remembered why my friends and I usually try to avoid popular places. Although the people may have spoiled the serenity of the beautiful natural spot, they couldn't spoil our fun, and Emi and I had a blast slipping and sliding down the smooth sandstone rapids and jumping off of the small cliffs that line the slickrock. Finally, we made it to the end of the slides and munched on a few of the late season blackberries and took the requisite leap from the taller cliffs underneath the bridge. Standing at the top of the cliffs with my sister, I had a very strange epiphany: I am losing my natural fear of heights. I've never been overly frightened of exposure or heights, but the normal bit of apprehension at standing on the edge of cliffs is now non-existant. I toed the edge of the cliff without the slightest hesitancy while others wouldn't even come close (Em did brilliantly though). It's probably not good for my survival rate, as fear can be a good thing when keeping me out of dangerous situations, but it is kind of cool. Nonetheless, Em and I both had good jumps and slid down the slides a few more times before we headed back up the trail and continued on to Flagstaff.
We went through a rainstorm as we drove up and out of the canyon and came out of it just as we got to the outskirts of Flag. We had a tasty lunch at The Black Bean and enjoyed the ambience of one of my favorite Arizona towns before continuing up to the Grand Canyon. After another two hours, we finally reached our destination and Emi and Angela caught their first glimpse of the mighty Grand near Mather Point. I've been to the Grand Canyon several times now, and each time, I am taken aback with its beauty and just overwhelming massiveness. The effect was felt by all of us. Even Angela, who is a bit scared of heights, did a great job as we walked along the Rim Trail. Emily and I wasted no time crawling out to the edge of the boulders that line the rim, and made Dad and Angela nervous as we walked easily out to a ledge that dropped off quite a ways. Again, my fear of heights was completely absent, even without water or a safe outlet if I were to fall. Crazy, but I loved it.
We explored all along the south rim near Mather, and then took a shuttle over to the rim lodges to watch the sun set over the western horizon. Dad and I had had such a great time hiking down to the river last winter, and Emily was itching to hike down below the rim as well. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time for a good hike, but I know that the two of us have some adventures in the bowels in the earth in our future.
The last tints of orange were completely vanished by the time we took the shuttle back to the car, so Emily and I took advantage of walking along the darkened canyon before we all jumped back in the car and headed back down to the Valley.
We were all still a bit tired the next morning, and Angela opted to explore Scottsdale while Dad, Emi, and I had a quick breakfast at the hotel and headed north again, this time on 87 towards Payson. The drive has become fairly familiar to me, but I saw the landscape with new eyes as Dad and Emi commented on the diversity that Arizona offers. After a few hours, we finally found ourselves on the dirt road that led to Fossil Creek. It's only six miles, and again, I have become used to it, but Dad wasn't and it seemed like much longer as we wound our way down the canyon to the creek below. When we reached the bottom and hiked down the trail to the water, they were absolutely amazed at the crystal clear blue-green travertine waters. My sister exclaimed that it was the coolest pool she had ever been to... and that was just at the first area we visited. We played all day up and down the creek in between the first pool and the big falls, swimming in the deep pools, jumping off of the rock shelfs, hiding behind the waterfalls, and letting the strong current massage our shoulders as we relaxed and enjoyed the beauty of the riparian area and each other's company. It was incredible to be able to share one of my favorite spots with my family, and we all had a great time. We ended the afternoon with a lunch of bread, cheese, and plums and jumping off of the big waterfall. As the breeze became cooler and thunderheads covered the sun, we started back on the trail, with the rumbling of an impending storm in the distance. We made it back to the car as the storm clouds passed innocently above us and we headed back up the road, with all of us admiring the commanding views of the red and green canyon with a rainbow streaking down through the center of it as we came to the top. Driving back to the Valley, we watched the cloudbursts pummel the landscapes below and were treated to one of the most magnificent rainbows I have ever seen (on land at least). We pulled off the highway (as did several other cars) to witness the incredible size and color of the double rainbow that bridged the entire valley near Gisela. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.
After a dinner at Oregano's and one more night chillin' with my sister, their trip came to an end. On Tuesday morning, they packed up and we said our goodbyes after several days of adventure and exploration, a taste of what my life is like out here in this great, hot playground. I know I had an incredible time while they were here, and I'm pretty sure that they went home with some great memories, and some plans for new adventures for when they come out here again.
Monday, August 4, 2008
Exploring Arizona
Kohl came over and we packed the Jeep with camping gear and an adventurous spirit, and took off to northern climes. We drove up to Flagstaff and just kept going. Our first stop on the weekend of adventure was the Lava River Cave, about 20 miles north of Flagstaff. We drove through a few miles of dirt roads past cool pine forests and open meadows filled with tall grass and wildflowers. When we arrived at the trailhead for the cave, we were both surprised at the number of vehicles parked there. Dozens of off-roaders packed the place as we packed our day bags and headed up the short trail to the cave. The Lava River Cave, or Lava Tube, was formed when the volcanoes of the San Francisco Peaks erupted, with the molten lava flowing underground through a long tunnel until it finally hardened and left a 3/4 mile long cave in the middle of the forest. The entrance to the cave is basically a big bouldery hole in the ground, and as soon as we approached it, the temperature dropped at least 10 degrees. We broke out some long sleeves and our headlamps and headed off into the unknown... Well, it wasn't really the unknown, as there were dozens of people in and around the entrance as we descended into the dark tunnel flecked with the bobbing of varying intensities of fluorescents and LEDs. The beginning of the cave was slick with condensation, making the scramble over the sharp volcanic boulders a bit of an adventure, but within a few hundred meters, the floor of the tunnel evened out to reveal a smoother floor of frozen lava. The further we hiked in, the beams of our headlamps flashing over every inch of the unique topography, the fewer our companions became. We soon came to a Y in the tube, and we chose the path less traveled (or at least the one that didn't have any headlights in it). We walked along on our own for a bit until we found ourselves completely alone in the cave, so we turned off our lights and marveled in the beauty of absolute darkness and total silence. The feeling was completely surreal, and we were frozen to the spot of ground on which we stood. The imagination plays interesting tricks on the mind, and I couldn't help but feel like I was standing on the edge of a cliff even though I knew that I was perfectly safe. It almost became too much, and after a few minutes we turned our lights back on to reveal our breath condensing once again in front of our faces and continued on. The ceiling rose and fell as we walked along until we came to a section where we had to crawl on our hands and knees with our packs scraping the roof. In the floor, you could see the flow of the lava and odd rocks forever immortalized in the frozen river and cracks that criss-crossed the floor formed from the cooling of the rock. Since our lights only illuminated a dozen feet ahead of us, we came upon the end of the tunnel very abruptly. There was no warning, just a narrowing of the cave until it dead-ended like a half-built railroad tunnel. We stopped for a quick break before turning around and heading out, taking the opposite side of the Y on the return trip and letting the darkness really seep into our beings. Although we had only been in the cave for less than two hours, the literal light at the end of the tunnel seemed strange and we crawled up out of the cave blinking and shedding our outer layers in the sudden heat. We soon adjusted and headed back to the Jeep and down the dirt roads. The flower-filled meadows beckoned us to frolic in them like little kids, so that's exactly what we did. The diversity and beauty of Arizona always amazes me, and it felt so good and so free to be running through the tall grass with a sweet pine breeze on the air. Afterwards we returned to Flagstaff for an early dinner at the Brewery before heading south on Lake Mary Road, where we resumed our explorations. Our search for the perfect camping spot sent us up the road towards Marshall Lake. Neither of us had been up there before, and the views from the top were incredible. We decided almost immediately that we would camp up there, but since we had a few hours of daylight left, we went back down to check out the southern part of Upper Lake Mary. The sunflowers and thistle growing among the driftwood made a spectacular foreground to the sun setting over the water and we sat down on a log and just watched the water for quite awhile, mesmerized by the lapping of the waves as if we were back on the ocean. With a little bit of daylight left, we gathered up some wood for a fire and returned to Marshall Lake. We found a secluded spot on the edge of the marshy lake and set up the tent and started a fire just as the last rays of sunlight slipped behind the San Franciscos. Our driftwood held out for longer than we thought it would, and our eyes soon grew heavy staring into the flames. I woke up to sounds of shrill water birds and got out of the tent to a bright, beautiful high altitude morning. After Kohl got up, we explored the shoreline and watched the outdoor version of Sunday morning cartoons as two guys attempted to float kayaks into the shallow reed-choked muck. Although the lake had its own beauty in the form of flora and waterfowl, it wasn't the first place that I would choose to kayak, and we got quite the show before we packed up camp to continue our exploration of the great state. With no agenda and a full tank of gas, we got to the intersection of Lake Mary Road and turned south. Just south of Lake Mary, we turned off to see what Ashurst Lake had to offer. The few miles along the high prairie gravel road were fairly interesting. Although the land is publicly owned, it is leased out to cattle farmers and as a result, cows were dotted all along the route. At one point, a big momma cow with even bigger longhorns charged across the road towards the Jeep and we both braced for impact before she decided that we weren't a threat to her calf and continued along her way. At the end of the road, we reached Ashurst Lake, a fair sized shallow lake with lots of rocks (and some potential jumping cliffs we think on the other side) surrounding it. There was lots of camping all over, but with the flat prairie surrounding the lake, it was kind of out in the open and not the most interesting place in the world. So, we turned around and decided to check out some of the trails. The Arizona Trail is a 790 mile trail that traverses the entire length of the state from Utah to Mexico, and took off from the Horse Lake trailhead (no, there is no lake, as we sadly found out) through the sparse pine forest towards Mormon Mountain. We went several miles and started to formulate new adventures for the American Fire team. Tentatively, we're going to try the trail in its entirety in the future. We figure it'll take a little bit less than 51 days and the budget won't be a fraction of an ocean row. We would have gone further down the trail, but we didn't want to spoil our future plans, so we took off again to find something new. A few more miles down the road, we came to the *almost* dry lake bed of Mormon Lake. It amounted to a large-scale version of Marshall Lake with marshy wetlands surrounding a good sized chunk of water in the middle. We drove around the entire lake until we came to a little village just in time for lunch, so we stopped at the Mormon Lake Lodge. The lodge was part museum, part restaurant, and they served a great lunch and had some incredible history of the area (everything from memorabilia of cattle ranchers and wild west feuds to stuffed mountain lions) hanging up on the walls. After lunch, we headed back around the lake, stopping at an overlook where bald eagles were supposed to be nesting. We didn't spot any of the birds, but a man who had set up a telescope set up let us watch a herd of several hundred elk grazing in the marshy area below. Our journey continued south through a high country thunderstorm on Lake Mary Road. Although I've only lived in Arizona for two years, I feel like I have explored quite a bit of it. Driving past dozens and dozens of brown signs pointing towards interesting parts of the national forests that line the road, I realized that it would take a lifetime to explore all of the amazing things that this state has to offer.
It was getting later in the day, so we opted not to explore any of the sites that claimed to be 10 miles or more from the highway, but after we met up with Highway 260 and finally through to 87, we pulled off to see what the Tonto Natural Bridge was all about. One of the great things about Arizona is how many amazing natural places you see absolutely free, and the $3 per person fee for the Natural Bridge had kept me away for awhile, but it was something that both of us wanted to see, so we paid the fee and went into the park. Even before we got to the namesake bridge, we got our money's worth by eating at least $6 worth of plums and blackberries from the grounds. After we got our fill, we walked over to the top of the bridge. Similar to the arches up in Utah, the unique geology of the land in combination with the forces of erosion had created a massive tunnel through the rock, creating a bridge over a creek below. We hiked down the trail to admire the view, play in the creek (unfortunately, the rangers wouldn't let us swim or cliff jump), and walk under the bridge. It was a good time, but we had gotten there near closing time, so we headed back up the trail, ate a few green apples that grew near the parking lot, and headed for home.